One week into the season - what's it really like?

Despite significant snowfalls in late October and early November we are not sitting in a winter wonderland at resort level. The prolonged dry period has reminded people of the last 2 years where Christmas and New Year did not produce snowfalls which instead came later in the season.

So what is it really like out there? Well we have skied this week and enjoyed some of the best snow conditions ever - how can that be? Well the answer probably lies in our eternal Australian optimism and the fact that we firmly believe in skiing to the conditions. We have a saying " a mediocre day on the slopes in the French Alps beats a great day at the office any time."  To the second point skiing to the conditions at the moment means no off piste, no fluffy white pillows to break your fall and no mindless meandering across super wide highways without a care in the world.

On the higher slopes the natural snow which fell earlier in the season has been preserved by the cold temperatures. The rigorous maintenance by the Pisteurs has resulted in very forgiving snow, grippy underfoot and easy to turn in. Lower down man made snow has enabled resort home runs to be opened and beginner areas to operate. The schedule of grooming has been increased which means for early birds lots and lots of corduroy to enjoy. As the day moves on some ares become hard packed and sharp edges are needed to get traction. The Three Valley links are open, the sun is shining and there are definitely worse places to be.

Today we went to Val Thorens and found some lovely snow. We took the blue Pluviometre run into Val Thorens which was nicely groomed with a few loose stones towards the bottom - easy to spot and avoid. We then took the Peclet Funitel- 3 times in total and again lovely groomed conditions on each run. All the runs at the top were open, 80% groomed. 

On the way up Peclet Funitel

From the summit all runs were open

The top of Peclet Funitel is the access to the Toboggan run which winds back down to Val Thorens centre. Judging by the number of Sledges the Funitel deals with on an average day it is certainly popular.

The Toboggan run Val Thorens

After playing around Peclet we moved to Portette Chair and Thorens Funitel giving us a chance to peak into the Orelle Valley. Our late afternoon runs back to Meribel Chaudanne were all in good condition despite some easily avoided hard patches. If you can control your speed they don't represent a problem. If you feel tired at the end of a day don't forget you can always take a Gondola down, if you do you will be rewarded by the biggest smiles form the Lifties because they know that sometimes it's the best thing to do.

The blue Lory run into the Orelle Valley

Autumn in Meribel

After a long Australian winter staring at Computer screens we have managed to secure early release from desk bound work and have escaped to Meribel 5 weeks earlier than usual. Whilst there is always lots to do in the Chalet to prepare for our guests, this year we have time to stop and admire the scenery in between getting ready for Winter.

We have posted before about the many walking tracks around the area which can be enjoyed in Winter if your legs need a break from skiing, some are even "groomed" by the mini piste basher machine to make the going easy. The range of walks expand before the snow falls so we have our map at the ready to see how many we can complete.

Lac Tueda - Mottaret

The weather is currently sunny and the autumn colours against the snow capped peaks are stunning so we took the opportunity to walk to Refuge du Saut. Positioned at the base of the Glacier de Gébroulaz the Refuge can be reached from Lac Tueda in Mottaret. Achievable during winter but certainly easier at this time of year the trail is well marked and takes you from lakeside to the base of the glacier.

Aiguille Du Fruit  

Seeing the Aiguille du Fruit up close as opposed to from some distance whilst skiing is fascinating and brings a new appreciation for how hard it is to ski down by those who leave the off piste tracks in the snow during winter.  

Early snow on the peaks

Some people consider the ski lifts to be scars on the landscape but to us they represent the lifeblood of the area, without them there would not be as many visitors or as much employment in the area. Looking at ski runs and lifts before the snow arrives is interesting and allows you to see the terrain type, pitch and angle much more clearly. In some cases this is not good, the pitch on Mont Vallon, usually one of my favourite runs, is scarily steep when seen from below.

News on what is planned for the coming season in The Three Valleys will be covered in our next post - in between walking of course.

Refuge du Saut

A break from skiing

A combination of dry and unseasonably warm weather has resulted in many ski areas in Europe being closed or only partially open. The Three Valleys has extensive snow making and a large proportion of pistes high enough to take advantage any snowfall and colder temperatures. The snow is not perfect but there is still plenty to ski on and every night the Pisteurs do an amazing job. 

A combination of the conditions, New Year week and day visitors from other resorts have resulted in busier than normal Pistes especially after mid morning so we have been taking advantage of the many walks available from our front door. The most demanding is probably the track up to the two Refuges above Les Allues - Le Refuge de la Traie and Le Refuge du Christ. The climb of approximately 1.5 hours is on a well marked, wide track and the reward of reaching the plateau is that you can get lunch, hot drinks, cold drinks (including wine) and if things are really desperate a bed for the night.

The views on the way up to the Refuges are stunning especially on a clear sunny day.

If you have the legs continue past the Refuges for another 20 minutes to the Col de la Lune where you will be rewarded with more open views of the Meribel Valley and then views into the Belleville Valley.       

If you are lucky you may spot wildlife whilst walking, we were not lucky this time probably because one of the Village dogs decided to accompany us (uninvited). She spent a lot of time chasing scents here, there and everywhere and an equal amount of time burrowing in the snow no doubt seeking a local wildlife snack of her own. Despite many other walkers she stuck with us, waited patiently while we ate lunch and when we were within sight of Les Allues on the return leg she bounded off no doubt happy that her work as a Mountain Guide was complete for the day.

Dogs who take themselves for a walk is definitely one of the nice things about French Alpine life.

                

Back on line…...

It's been a long time since we posted but normal service has now been resumed. Nothing dramatic just a busy end of the season and an even busier return to non Chalet life.

Over the next few posts we will catch up on what has been happening at Chalet Vache Bleue and news from the Three Valleys and some treats to look forward to next season.

Season 2014-15 was certainly an interesting one. In terms of Chalet Vache Bleue we had over 90% occupancy through the season and welcomed guests from all corners of the world. One of the nicest things about meeting so many people who have skied all over the world is getting the low down on other resorts - especially when they say The Three Valleys and specifically Meribel top them all. 

So what do people like about our slice of heaven? Overall it would have to be the variety of runs and the efficient lift system. Regular visitors also appreciate the improvements which are made every year including re-shaped runs, faster lifts, better facilities (including more on-mountain toilets) and more extensive entertainment programmes.

Last season will not be remembered for an abundance of snow but as usual the superb Piste maintenance team in Meribel made the best of what we had. Many resorts in France had limited skiing available and some were forced to reduce ski pass availability to prevent overcrowding on the few slopes they were able to open. We haven't heard the long range forecast for next season yet but we know that with the altitude, direction of slopes, man made snow making and the great team who work every night in Meribel there will be plenty of snow to slide around on. Why not come and see for yourself?

Snowy walk around our Village January 2015

Summer in Meribel

Midwinter in the southern hemisphere and parts of the south east of Australia certainly knew about it this week with wild weather hitting Melbourne and Sydney. Great news for the ski resorts although current visibility at Blue Cow is slightly limited.

Conditions at Blue Cow this morning

While the Australian ski resorts enjoy snowfalls of over a metre just in time for the school holidays, the summer season in Meribel officially starts on the weekend. From the 28^th June to 29^th August the Tougnete and Pas du Lac lifts will be open to whisk holidaymakers to the summits to enjoy walking, cycling or simply the amazing views. In addition to the Meripass as detailed in our last post lift tickets are available on daily, weekly or even sector basis.

You don’t have to take lifts at all if you don’t want to, there are plenty of paths for walking and trails for mountain biking that can be accessed from different points throughout the valley. From our Village of Les Allues you can access easy walks up to Meribel Village or Meribel Centre, and across the valley interesting loop trails can be taken which go through small Villages giving a real insight into life in rural France. Feeling a little more energetic? The climb to Col de la Lune from Les Allues is well worth it for the views into the Belleville Valley. The area around the Altiport and the Golf course is picture perfect at this time of year, hard to believe that beautiful green grass was covered in snow just a few months ago.

If you feel like being a bit more adventurous perhaps exploring the glaciers and more dramatic peaks of the area, group or individual tours are available for beginners and advanced hikers. The destination depends on level of walkers and the weather but can include: the Vanoise glaciers, Grande Glière, Grand Paradis, Dôme des Ecrins, Mont-Blanc, Aiguille de la Vanoise, Le Petit Arcelin. Costs start from 95€ per person. For more information contact the Mountain Guides' office:

www.guides-courchevel-meribel.com 

Walking and Mountain Bike riding maps are available form the Tourist Office, like the winter piste map they cover all three valleys giving a huge choice of routes to follow. There are also commercially available maps for the area which show an even wider range of tracks you can follow, there really is no excuse for a lazy summer holiday in Meribel.

Part of the walking map around Les Allues - plenty to keep you going for an active summer holiday

So while the southern hemisphere shivers the outlook for this week in Meribel is sunshine and 20 degrees – perfect for getting out and exploring. Enjoy.

What's the weather like in March?

Simple question impossible to answer. As we come to the end of March we would reasonably expect to be in Spring Skiing mode. The days are long, lifts open until late afternoon, the odd fly has been spotted and the goggle tans are developing. All of this was completely true until the end of last week when winter decided she had not quite finished yet. By Sunday we were experiencing temperatures of minus 25 in the wind and wondering if we had imagined the temperatures of 14 plus degrees and apres drinks in the sunshine only days before.

The dramatic drop in temperature brought snow, lots of it. Even down at Village level the early Primroses were hidden by snow and the alarm clock was beaten by the snow plough off to do his snow clearing. The Pistes are fresh and in beautiful condition so it seems a shame that there are so few people here to enjoy it. When Easter falls late, March is usually a quiet period. There are no school holidays and the idea of "Spring Skiing" can raise concerns around the quality and quantity of snow. 

So is it risky to book a snow holiday for March? Our experience would say not at all. The Three Valleys area is high and benefits from a mostly northerly aspect which keeps the snow in good condition. Piste grooming in the area is amongst the best in the world which ensures the conditions are the best possible. The efficient lift system can get you up high quickly and even if spring snow appears at the bottom of the area down lifting using Gondolas at the end of the day is always an option.

We have been in the area many times during March and a quick check through our Photos confirmed that it always snows during the month. So as many people start to think about their snow holiday for next season don't forget about March as a possibility. As an added incentive next March from the 18th to 22nd March the 2015 Alpine Skiing World Cup Finals will take place in Meribel. This is not just a "first" for Meribel but also a "first" for France. What better excuse do you need?

To show off our lovely conditions here are a few pictures taken over the last 7 days.

Enjoying the sun before the weekend

Lovely afternoon sunlight on the way home

The Altiport area plunged back into Winter

The sun did try but the snow clouds won in the end

Flags - not just for Australian beaches

Spending half our lives in Australia we are well used to looking at Flags for information, they are the way Surf Lifesaving Patrols warn of conditions and where is safe to swim at the beach. A similar system operates in the Three Valleys at the points where you can move from one valley to the next. Years ago it was necessary to seek out the blackboard of information at the top of the lift stations and although these still exist the flag system is simple, easy to spot even from a distance and easily understood whatever your language you understand. 

Over the last two weeks we have had a couple of days of high winds including one day last week which managed to knock over the large festive snowman which marks the entrance to Les Allues and numerous large signs around the resort. On very windy days you don't really need to be told it is windy but it frequently happens that the wind increases during the day which can lead to lifts being closed and ultimately you can be stranded in the wrong valley. 

The flags are positioned where you transition from one valley to another and look like this:

This is of course the favourite flag - Green for all good, links are open and no problems anticipated. This is followed by Amber which signifies that crossing over to a Valley other than the one you are staying in is "not advised":

This is probably the toughest one because lifts will still be open and you may be tempted to cross to another Valley but be warned the weather can change very quickly and taxi fares home are expensive. 

The final stage is the red flag - which I don't have a picture of - which signifies the links are closed. This can cause confusion for some people as Pistes leading to the next valley will be open however you will not be able to get back to the top as the lifts will be closed.

The flag system is not the only way the lift companies keep slope users informed there are still the blackboards and message boards as you get on and off lifts. If in doubt don't be afraid to ask advice from either the lift operators or the Piste Patrol in the huts located throughout the area. It is in their best interests to keep you safe, they are friendly, approachable and have the best knowledge of the area.

Finally the weather here in Meribel is a little grey and snowy today but we are promised a return to sunny days for tomorrow followed by a light fall of snow on Friday to freshen up the Pistes. Perfect really and to end this post a picture taken on Monday which really was the most perfect day to be enjoying the snow in Meribel

Lovely day for a picnic.....not!

Wild weather

January definitely ended in a more traditional way weather wise than it started. According to a local newspaper the first 10 days of the month were the hottest on record, the last 10 days probably didn't break any records but it was certainly cold. On Saturday we ventured over to Val Thorens, ready to take advantage of the empty slopes and hoping to be able to walk straight on to the Cime de Caron lift without waiting. As we skied down into VT we had a stark reminder of how weather conditions can change dramatically from one valley to another. 

We left Meribel under blue skies and light breeze, as we were half way down the Pluviometre piste we could see the clouds of snow rolling down the main pistes in VT. The top lifts were closed but we were able to make it into Orelle - the Fourth Valley - where even though one lift remained closed the skiing on the freshly blown snow was a dream. The facial exfoliation we had to endure to get around the top of Col de Rosael was worth it and Orelle was all ours, we have skied the area in quiet conditions before but never in such solitude.

Top of Combe de Rosael

Cime de Caron did open at lunchtime which allowed us another jaunt into Orelle and the the inevitable happened - we became hungry. Most days we take our lunch and a flask of hot chocolate with us. Aside from the cost of eating and drinking on the mountain taking your own lunch means you can stop when and where you want or at least it does unless it is blowing a gale and freezing cold. Those January days just a few weeks ago of sitting in glorious sunshine enjoying a picnic have gone so thank goodness for the increase in the number of "picnic areas" in the Three Valleys many of which provide shelter from not so nice weather. The size, standard and facilities vary, the one we used on Saturday is semi-open but definetely an improvement on being completely exposed.

Lunchtime - top of Plateau drag lift VT

One of the most recent additions to the picnic areas of The Three Valleys is the Chaudanne Lounge in Meribel. Situated at the Saulire Express 1 this really is more than a picnic area with a section of comfortable lounge seating, free WiFi and Microwaves. Ideal as a meeting point as well as a very warm, comfortable spot for lunch or just a rest. 

Special mention is also deserved by Plan des Mains at the base of Mont du Vallon. This is both a Restaurant and a sandwich spot where they have generously provided an area of deck-chairs for those bringing their own lunch. All they ask is that you use the bins provided to keep the are tidy, not too much to ask really.

Picnic areas are marked on the Piste map with a picnic table sign, worth checking out even if just for a 5 minute breather between runs or a handy meeting spot.

Staying safe on the slopes

We are currently enjoying great on-piste conditions in Meribel and the whole 3 Valleys area. Following a very (unusual) warm start to January it has started to get cold again and whilst we haven't had any major dumps of snow the falls that we have received have kept the pistes in great condition. Off-Piste the conditions are best described as "unstable" and are not advised unless you are with a Guide and properly equipped. Last week we were rewarded for our decision to go skiing in what looked like a white out from our windows in Les Allues. As we reached the summit of Saulire it was as if someone had opened the curtains - blue sky and sunshine greeted us as the pictures below show.

Although it is blissfully quiet on the Pistes in January accidents can still happen. A recent article in the UK Daily Telegraph quoted the number of injuries sustained in the French Alps last season as 1,400, 12% being the result of collision with other Piste users. Here are a couple of tips to minimise your risk:

• Always look up the slope before entering a run and stay aware of where others may be going especially in those areas where several lifts depart from the same area.
• Give other Piste users plenty of room, you have no idea what their next move may be
• If you need to stop do so at the side of the Piste and never just over the brow of a rise where you cannot be seen clearly by Piste users coming down the slope.
• Be mindful of the conditions - this includes weather, snow conditions, type of Piste and time of day. Major runs which take people to resort accommodation hubs at the end of the day are often best avoided. There is nothing wrong with experiencing a Gondola travelling downhill when conditions make it the more enjoyable option. You will receive a warm welcome from the lift operators, they know a wise decision maker when they see one.
• Wear a Helmet. It won't save you in every circumstance but in a collision it can help to minimise your injuries.
• Don't ski or ride under the influence of alcohol, in addition to the obvious dangers of slower reaction times it can invalidate your Insurance.

More snow is forecast over the next few days and much colder temperatures - a maximum of minus 16 is predicted for the summits on Friday. Time to wrap up well.

A Whale has visited and winter returns to Meribel

After a period of lovely warm weather winter has returned to Meribel. Following a night where over 20cm fell it has been snowing all day today even at Les Allues level and below. I can't give an eyewitness account of the conditions on piste as today has been one of admin, cooking and watching the tiny patches of blue sky struggle against the low cloud and mist. Temperatures have fallen and look set to remain at a wintery level for at least the next 5 days.

A friend recently told me of the shark alarm being sounded at Dee Why beach in the Northern Beaches area of  Sydney. We don't have such a dramatic warning system here of a change in the weather and as in many places even weather forecasts seem to vary. We do however have a peaceful, subtle warning of snow arriving in the form of a Whale which when sighted is much more welcome than a Shark on Dee Why Beach. The place to keep an eye on is Mt Blanc, when a cloud shaped like a Whale appears on the top of Mt Blanc but you can still see the top of the mountain above the cloud snow is on the way.

Baleine de Neige on Mt Blanc

The example above snapped earlier this season is not the most perfect Baleine de Neige but it did bring a decent snowfall the next day. At their very best these clouds really do look like a Whale sitting across the mountain peak, I will try and get a better example later in the season. 

As we are expecting more snow over the next 5 days I will report back later this week on the conditions underfoot particularly from the lower, tree lined runs which provide improved visibility if the cloud remains low.

January in Meribel

One week into 2014 and we have been enjoying beautiful conditions under our skis with what feels like endless blue skies and sunshine above us. People often ask us which month is "best" to come skiing and to be honest each year is different. January is often though of as a cold snowy month yet in the past we have experienced more than one January where barely a snowflake fell. 

Whilst we can't predict the weather one thing we do know for sure is that once New Year week is over the slopes are very, very quiet. Coming from Australia where January is the main holiday period this is something that still takes a bit of getting used to. Even in busy periods it is easy to avoid queues across the Three Valleys by planning your day carefully but the joy of skiing wherever takes your fancy without having to think about bottlenecks or what time ski schools deposit their pupils is sheer joy. Today we skied the popular Choucas piste all by ourselves and this morning found plenty of corduroy, untouched runs in Courchevel as late as 10.00am, a time by which most pistes have usually been visited.

Not a soul on Choucas Piste

Following a fall of approx 20cm on Saturday we have had a sunny week with mild temperatures. Despite this the snow on Piste is in excellent condition with just some softening in late afternoon at the lower levels. Off Piste is currently not recommended due to the unstable nature of the snow pack. The weather forecast suggests a change is about to arrive and this morning we certainly felt it with a chilly wind blowing at the top of Mount Vallon. The chill was worth putting up with though as a couple of centimetres of fresh snow made the runs down Mt Vallon extremely enjoyable.

Sunny but clouds gathering

We will update the weather situation in the next post and explain the significance of seeing White Whales whilst skiing around the Three Valleys.

Holiday time in Meribel

Carol singing in Meribel Centre

Although a little late Merry Christmas from Meribel - here's what has been happening here over the past 2 weeks.

Firstly Santa did leave us some snow along with his presents which was lovely. Christmas Day itself was not a bluebird day but plenty of lovely skiing on very empty Pistes. We find that most people have a slow start on Christmas Day and many do not venture out at all preferring to spend the time with family. This year the weather was certainly changeable, the sun tried to shine but was beaten back by ominous skies which eventually gave snow. 

Carol singing in Les Allues

Many people ask what it is like in Meribel at Christmas and the answer is very "Christmassy". Most Chalets are decorated with outdoor lights, the centres at each level of the resort have beautiful decorations and the activities from Church Services to Santa arriving on his sleigh are all available to be enjoyed. One of our favourites is the Carol singing which we have seen grow over the last couple of seasons. The first Carol singing event is held in Les Allues and features Vin Chaud and the opportunity to catch up with the locals and visitors alike. On Christmas Eve a second Carol concert was held in Meribel centre and a large crowd joined in with the Choir and local schoolchildren. Explaining Rudolf the Red Nose Reindeer to a French person takes some doing but they do join in with enthusiasm and true Christmas spirit aided of course by the Vin Chaud.

We are enjoying more fresh snow over the next few days which means continuing great conditions for those visitors arriving for the New Year week. Here are a couple of pictures taken over the last few days

Berries remaining defiant against the snow in Les Allues village

9.00am waiting for the first lift from Chaudanne

Early morning sun from Saulire mid station

Winter turns up and yet another Lift Pass option

As Sydney experiences a very hot and dry spring Winter is trying to take over Autumn in Meribel. Last week saw the valley transformed into the first winter wonderland of the season and temperatures are on the way down. At this time of year the snow is likely to disappear as quickly as it arrived but the lower temperatures are a welcome sign as colder ground means the next falls will stick around longer.

First taste of winter October 14th 2013

We posted a few weeks ago about the Lift Pass prices and options for the 2013/14 season and as we looked at our bookings and realised we have many guests who stay for more than one week and there are many lucky people who return to the resort several times a season. So to finish up our Lift Pass round up here are details of a pass which really is for frequent sliders.

If you ski between 8 and 21 days over the winter season the 3 Valleys Liberty Pass is worth looking at as an option. The Liberty pass is only available on-line not through the Lift Ticket Offices, an annual fee of 30€ is payable. Once you have established the Pass and paid your subscription there is nothing else to do but hit the mountain. At the end of each day the area you have skied is recorded and the appropriate daily fee is deducted from your chosen credit card.

You will pay less than the ordinary day pass rate, a 10% discount is applied Sunday to Friday, and a 20% discount on a Saturday. The 9^th day of skiing is free, and then every following 6^th day is free. The discounts are certainly worth having but the real value of the Liberty pass is the flexibility to only pay when you actually have been on the lifts and to only pay for the area you have skied in. It takes a bit of calculating to work out if it offers value for you based on the number of days you are likely to ski and where but for those lucky enough to hit the slopes on a regular basis but not quite enough to get a Season pass it’s an option worth considering.

Finally remember that the Lift Pass prices do not include Insurance. Needing to make an insurance claim is not really at top of mind for most people as they buy a lift pass at the start of their holidays but perhaps it should be so more about Insurance next time.